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Portland

 
Frommer's Guide
FEATURES AND EVENTS
Portland Plays it Cool
Northwest Chic: Portland Plays it Cool
by Jessica L'Esperance
Only in Portland...

• Set foot (or just a toe) in the world's smallest park, 24-inch Mills Ends Park.

• Catch a flick at a McMenamin's brew-n-view theater where pizza, couches, and $3 tickets ensure good times.

• Gaze up at Portlandia, a 36-foot hammered-copper statue, second in size only to the Statue of Liberty.

• C'mon and take a free ride on the Tri-Met within the 300-block downtown "Fareless Square" zone.

• Predict the weather in Pioneer Courthouse Square.

• Read the Giving Tree in the "Garden of Granite" Children's Reading room in the Main Library.

• Eat rice and beans while sipping a microbrew at the library-like Tugboat Brew Pub.


There's a reason Portland doesn't boast about its world-class museums or its star-studded shows: It doesn't really have them. So instead of a visit filled with stuffy theaters, chilly museums, and a laborious list of must-sees, expect Portland's charms to reveal themselves as you hone your skills in the art of everyday living. Life happens in the movie theaters where beer is served, along the waterfront where people take their evening stroll, and at the bookstores where knowledge is sought and found. Your best teachers are Portland's half-million residents, who really know how to enjoy life's finer qualities. The Bohemian tastes for intellectual and physical stimulation crossbred with the Northwest's undying affection for the outdoors produce the unique pulse that runs through Portland's arteries.

port2It's this marriage between creative expression and outdoor adventure that defines today's Portland, as it stands nestled between two powerful rivers, the Colombia and the Willamette. People who live here love their cafés and are always ready to sit down for a good cup of coffee and conversation. Equally appreciated are locally crafted beer, handmade goods, art galleries, and gardens. Portland's zest for life, despite the weather's natural gloominess, should inspire the same energy in all her visitors. The residents of this cosmopolitan community have it down pat. Watch, learn, and enjoy.

One-of-a-Kind Shopping
Every Saturday and Sunday over 300 artists gather under the Burnside Bridge for one of Portland's favorite traditions: The Saturday Market. Shop for one of-a-kind souvenirs from this longstanding weekend gathering of artisans, patrons, and browsers. Set foot in the vibrant market and for a memorable experience, strike up a conversation with a vendor about his or her crafts, the abundance of free entertainment, or even the weather. Artisans will tell you that this is the place to be on the weekends, and they might even tip you off on their own favorite spot in the city. Walk farther in, past wooden salad bowls and wind chimes made from silverware, and the smell of fresh baked bread, grilled veggies, and Pad Thai wafts through the air. Find jewelry, tie-dyed baby clothes, survival kits, clothing, and lithograph prints. This weekly festival makes a great start or finish to a stroll around Portland's historic downtown neighborhood, the Skidmore District.

Literary Paradise
port3Delighting both locals and tourists alike for over thirty years, a visit to Powell's City of Books is one of Portland's most rewarding pilgrimages. Shoppers, book aficionados, and anyone who has ever searched for a tome to no avail will appreciate the selection and the size of Powell's City of Books. They call it a city for a reason--Portland's legendary independent bookstore is an impressive three-story building occupying an entire city block carrying over 1,000,000 titles and accommodating 40,000 bibliophiles a day. Stacked to the brim with new, used, and rare books, this literary haven encourages patrons to browse by displaying all its titles side by side. Don't worry about getting lost; the rooms are all color-coded and the courteous staff provides free maps to ensure you'll find your favorite areas with ease. No city is complete without a place to get a cup of coffee and read, and this "city" is no different--the Anne Hughes Coffee Room dishes up desserts and drinkables during opening hours.

Industrial Chic
There is very little oyster left in Portland's Pearl District. This formerly industrial zone of warehouses and stockyards has gracefully given way to the colorful and eclectic home of Portland's thriving art scene. The Pearl now houses the highest concentration of art galleries in the city, as well as the headquarters the Pacific Northwest College of Art and the Portland Institute for Contemporary Art. The influx of galleries and the art schools has revitalized the once-abandoned area that is now packed with cutting-edge cafés, innovative restaurants, and independent stores catering to its artsy clientele. This oh-so-modern fusion of the aesthetically mundane, functional buildings with the progressive artistic community really comes alive on the First Thursday Gallery Walk. Every month galleries open their doors to the public, hold open houses, and often kick off new shows. Artisans set up shop on the sidewalk and peddle paintings, pottery, and other wares as the city's young, old, hipster, and hippie all co-mingle creating a rare combination of energy, talent, and creative expression. After the galleries close their doors the festivities make their way into the interspersed bars and restaurants till the wee hours of the night.

Past Meets Present
History buffs will enjoy ambling down the vibrant elm-lined South Park Blocks, which radiate sophistication and a stately feel. This stretch is noted for having the largest and oldest standing elms in the country. Lined with elegant churches and public buildings, the Park Blocks are also home to the Portland Art Museum and Northwest Film Center, the Oregon History Center, and border part of Portland State University (PSU). During the day many of PSU's 16,000 students can be seen taking a rest, studying, or socializing on the inviting greenery. Drop in the Oregon History Center, famous for its research library and rotating exhibits, both of which focus on the history of the Pacific Northwest. Rumor has it that they have a branding iron once owned by Meriweather Lewis in their collection.

Head for the Hills
Port4When the sun comes out, put on your walking shoes and join the herd flocking to Washington Park. Located in the lush, green West Hills are two of Portland's most impressive outdoor treasures: the Japanese Tea Gardens and the International Rose Test Garden (left). Its no surprise that Portland has been nicknamed the City of Roses. Since 1917 rows of masterfully manicured roses have emitted the sweetest perfumes charming visitors from spring to fall. The American Rose Society has tested over 400 varieties of roses on the 4.5-acre site, making it one of the nation's largest test gardens. Tucked just below the roses is the methodically ornate and peacefully designed Japanese Tea Garden. Collectively considered one of the best in the country, these five botanically diverse, but equally tranquil gardens represent different Japanese landscaping styles and are spread throughout 5.5 acres. Add to the bushes of roses and rows of bonsai, a panoramic view to the east of Mt. Hood, and you might think all this beauty was enough for one park. Not in Portland. Washington Park also shelters hiking trails, a soccer field, the World Forestry Center, the Hoyt Arboretum, and archery, tennis, and picnicking facilities.

If Portland had a theme song, Burt Bacharach's classic number, Rain Drops Keep Falling on My Head would be it. No contest. While Burt's not the most Bohemian guy in the world, he did tap into the Portland mind-set. This upbeat tune suggests that a with a positive attitude, a sense of personal freedom, and a love of life, anyone can shed a gloomy mood brought on by even the worst rainy day. Read it, listen to it, and learn it. If you are blessed with the shimmering showers instead of sweet sunshine, this may be the exact mantra you'll need to help you find and enjoy Portland's soul.

Raindrops keep falling on my head
But that doesn't mean my eyes will soon be turnin' red
Crying's not for me
Cause I'm never gonna stop the rain by complainin'
Because I'm free
Nothing's worrying me

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